Page 39 - Winter 2024 Taste Magazine

WineScene
By Andy Abramson
Effervescent Elegance A Sparkling Toast to Festive Traditions
As the year wanes and the festive spirit flourish- es, the time- honored tra- dition of toasting life's blessings and future endeavors with a glass of sparkling
without the overriding sweetness one would expect.
The sojourn of effervescence transcends to Austria’s Kamptal region, where the Bründlmayer Sparkling Brut Rosé, nestled near the charm- ing town of Langenlois hails, awaits you. This sparkling rosé, with its delicate bubbles, fragrant notes of wild strawberries, and a whisper of minerality, adds a touch of Austrian elegance to the festive tableau.
Of course, there is Champagne, where amidst the vast spectrum of sparkling wines, the lesser-known but highly esteemed Grower Champagnes like Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, Marc Hébrart, Gaston Chiquet, and Agrapart & Fils extend a personal narrative of the revered Champagne terroir, each bottle a testament to the meticulous crafts- manship of the vignerons.
Sparkling Pairings of Bubbles and Food
As we embark on a sparkling journey across Europe, let's indulge in a culinary exploration that harmonizes the bubbles with the diverse fla- vors of festive fare. In the heart of Italy, as the delicate bubbles of Franciacorta delight the palate, a plate of fresh oysters creates a melody
of textures and tastes with their salty kiss of the sea. The crisp allure of Prosecco finds its match in the creamy decadence of a rich Brie or Camembert, while the fruity fizz of Lambrusco embraces the robust flavors of charcu- terie.
As we traverse to Spain, the versatile profile of Cava forms a beautiful alliance with a variety of seafood. The crisp acidity and citrus undertones cut through the rich- ness of lobster, creating a balance that sings of the ocean's bounty, while shrimp, whether grilled or chilled, finds a refreshing counterpart in Cava's lively bubbles. In Limoux and Alsace, the elegance of Crémant forms a perfect duet with fresh fruits and melons. The subtle sweetness of seasonal berries, juxtaposed against the crisp bubbles, narrates a tale of summer's end and
autumn's embrace.
Our Austrian detour with Bründlmayer Sparkling Brut Rosé calls for a celebration of flavors. The Rosé's fragrant notes are in tune with a plat- ter of fresh fruits, its subtle sweetness mirroring the gentle ripeness of peaches and nectarines. Last but not least are bubbles with sushi, where the dance of Umami and Effervescence comes out to play. Imagine the delicate finesse of sparkling wines married exquisitely with the nuanced flavors of sushi. The crisp acidity and lively sparkle cut through the richness of the fish, while at the same time, the subtle com- plexities of the wine echo the umami whispers of soy and wasabi, creat- ing a harmonious ballet of taste and tradition. Each sip of sparkling wine becomes a narrative of the lands from whence they came and a toast to the harmonious pairing of wine and fare. Cheers!!!
Andy Abramson is the editor of WineScene.com and Winesiders.co, two online wine discovery sites. He is also the USA Ambassador for the Grenache Association and a frequent visitor to wine regions around the world. Andy also makes wine under the Comunicano Wine Company brand in Santa Barbara with Doug Margerum of the Margerum Wine Company. He recently co-founded wineTOURia, with longtime wine colleague Victoria Nicole Varela to
enable the discovery of wines made along wine roads of the world less traveled.WineScene:
wine takes center stage. The illustrious Champagne region, with its iconic bubblies, has long held a monopoly over our celebratory flutes. However, the vast vine-clad expanse of the Europe houses’ sparkling gems go far beyond the famed French terroirs. This holiday season, let us traverse through the effervescent elegance of Italy, Spain, France's hidden sparkle, and a delightful detour to Austria's
Kamptal region and enjoy the tiny bubbles that will
dance across our tongues throughout the holidays.
In the picturesque vineyards of Italy, a riveting array of
sparkling wines awaits the discerning palate.
Franciacorta, the Italian answer to Champagne, pres-
ents a refined tapestry of bubbles, notably the Ca'del
Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige Brut, with its
vibrant acidity and elegant pear, apple, and almond
notes. The gentle hills of Veneto cradle the famed
Prosecco, with offerings like the Nino Franco Rustico
Prosecco Superiore, a vivacious sparkler exuding flo-
ral aromas and crisp, citrusy flavors. For a touch of
the unconventional, a glass of Cleto Chiarli
Lambrusco di Sorbara Vecchia Modena embodies
the hearty spirit of Italian festivities with its ruby fizz and berry-laden palate. Let’s not leave out longtime mega-producer in Tuscany, Castello Banfi, which never lets you down with their Rosa Regale line of sparkling wines.
Across the Mediterranean, Spain's Penedès region heralds the tradi- tion of Cava, a sparkling wine steeped in heritage yet embracing mod- ern viticulture. The Gramona III Lustros Gran Reserva Brut Nature is a testament to Cava's finesse, showcasing a beautiful balance of fresh- ness and complexity with hints of brioche and Mediterranean herbs. For something higher end, look no further than the Agusti Torello Mata Kripta Gran Reserva, a stunning bubbly blend of Macabeo, Xarelto, and Parellada grapes, whose light creamy flavor leads only to a nutty and spicy finish.
In the quaint French regions of Limoux and Alsace, the tradition of Crémant offers a unique sparkle. The Domaine J. Laurens Crémant de Limoux Les Graimenous showcases a delicate mélange of apple, citrus, and toasty flavors. At the same time, the widely available Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace Brut Rosé, with its fine bubbles and red berry charisma, is a poetic toast to the beauty of Alsace. Another out- standing producer, whom Kermit Lynch imports, is Domaine Albert Boxler, whose Crémant d’Alsace Brut epitomizes dryness and fruit, all
Albert Boxler's Crémant
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