Page 16 - Spring/Summer Taste Magazine

CHEF PROFILE • Gaetano Cannata • Ortygia Restaurant
O
the Arts. I had the idea to start my own restaurant 15 years ago after working
in numerous restaurants for most of my life here and in Northern New Jersey. Our menu features creative Sicilian dishes not found in many other Italian or “Sicilian” restaurants. Contrary to what most people believe, Sicilian food is not the same as Italian food. Sicily was conquered by numerous civilizations, such as the Italians, Arabs, North Africans, Spanish, French and many more. True Sicilian food comes from some combination of these and many other cultures. I strive to offer dishes that are rarely found outside of
Sicily, with menus that change weekly.
Background
I was raised in a Sicilian family in Northern New Jersey and after some years as an early childhood educator, I launched my own restaurant 15 years ago at the age 50.
When you come from a typical Sicilian family or at least my family, your whole life revolves around food. At breakfast, you're talking about what to have for dinner and at dinner you're talking about what dinner will be tomorrow. My home is where I learned to love and respect food. The beginning of my journey started with my first meal. Afterwards, I worked in restaurants with some great chefs and not so great chefs, and I learned from each one.
I started working in kitchens when I was 14 years old, as I’ve always had a fascination with food and cooking. My father was a Sicilian-born chef and my mother learned all her fantastic cooking techniques from him, and from her mother who was from the Abruzzi region of Italy. I would have to say that my passion for food started at home. I learned at a very early age to either grow your own food or to purchase it as fresh and local as possible. The only thing that came out of a can at my house were imported San Marzano toma- toes!
Food was always the major topic of conversation in my home. Where to buy it, how fresh it was and how to prepare it. Most of my profes- sional training came from a small chef owned restaurant in my neighborhood, like the restaurant I now have. Most of these masters of their art were born in Italy, France, Spain, and Portugal and most of them had the same food values as my parents. They all bought their food from the local farmers, fisherman, butchers, and bakers. I used to love to shop with them. The knowledge I gained from them was indispensable, but my love of food and cuisine, as well as the deep respect that I have for food, again was a gift given to me by my parents.
I pride myself on providing a unique dining experience. We don’t just cook here; we create and build relationships. Ortygia is a warm and friendly place. I enjoy playing harmonica and I occasionally play with the musicians who perform here. Also, I endeavor to come out of the kitchen and check on every table when possible, and at times when the night is through, I may spend hours talking with clients about Sicilian food and culture, which is my passion.
I’ve been in the restaurant industry almost all my life, however Ortygia is my first venture out on my own. As I said earlier it’s been 15 years since I first opened my doors and it’s been a thrilling adventure to say the least.
I can’t begin to express all the things I love about this business. I love the creative, artistic outlet it allows me; it allows me to expose people to a plethora of new tastes, and it also provides me the privilege of cultivating new friendships. To be successful in this field, I believe I must set myself apart from other restaurants in the area. The first and most basic feature that does this is the cuisine. It is a forgotten cuisine that emerged out of Sicily and Naples over 200 years ago called the cuisine of the Monzu. It is a fusion of French and
Sicilian cooking, which allows me poetic license which inspires creativity. One other thing that sets Ortygia apart is the atmosphere which we create. When customers come for dinner, they arrive as clients and leave as friends. I am told again and again by my cliental that they come to Ortygia not only for the food, but for the experience.
My most favorite meal
Too many to choose from. Tasting menu at Don Alphonso 1892 in Santa Agata outside of Naples with Chef Alfonso Laccarino. My partner April and I
were given a private “audience” with him. There was a 6- month waiting list. I got in four days. Like they say” It’s not what you know...”. Also, 25 years ago my first of many trips to Sicily was breakfast with my cousin at 9am at the open waterfront market in Catania sitting on the docks eating fresh raw sea urchins, a loaf of freshly baked bread, and a bottle of Nero d’Avola wine. And most meals in my parent’s kitchen...
Favorite wine or drink
Cocktail: Negroni with dry vermouth. Spirit: Any good bourbon, neat. Wine: Ripasso or Aglianico. After dinner: I have a collection of over 55 types of Amaro, mostly from Sicily.
Favorite local restaurants
Chef Pavel at Cremesh is a fantastic chef, although he recently sold the restau- rant. His bakery and coffee shop also named Cremesh is a winner as well. Drunken Poet in Sarasota for Sushi. Euphemia Haye, Ray and D’Arcy have a great place, and they too have just sold. We go for the food and the friendship.
Hobbies on my days off
Reading, playing harmonica, leading culinary tours to Sicily and the Mediterranean and vacationing there every summer with April. Exploring new and unique chef owned restaurants.
If I were not a chef, what would I do?
I don’t know but it would probably have to be food and/or wine related.
How has covid affected my business?
Since we have an outdoor patio that we can use when the weather is conducive, we have been blessed with very busy nights. Especially for a small restaurant that is off the beaten path. I shortened my menu when we first opened after Covid. I was going to bring the full menu back, but my clients preferred the shortened menu which changes weekly. Also, I changed my work schedule. Whereas I was open four days for lunch and five evenings for dinner pre-Covid, post-Covid I no longer serve lunches and I only open four nights a week. When business picked up, I made the decision not to go back to full time. One can always make more money if needed, but time is not that generous. I prefer my time with friends and family.
Who would be my favorite dinner companions and why?
I already have all my favorite dinner companions in my life. I love and appreci- ate all my current dinner companions, especially April, my lifelong partner. Maybe author and journalist Christopher Hitchens.
Ortygia
1418 13th Street West, Bradenton, 941-741-8646 www.ortygiarestaurant.com
rtygia is a small 38 seat restaurant located in Bradenton’s Village of
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